Hey David,
I had a little climbing-hold based hang board in my house, which I’m moving out of. So I figured those holds can live at the gym for a while. I was quite sick of the 15 degree wall, so I stripped the tape and rearranged the holds. Moved many, left some. Then I set about 10 problems from V0 to “V8.” So while we do want new problems set, I might suggest leaving that wall, as the majority of people haven’t climbed the problems and they are quite fun. I also moved stuff around on the 45 wall just enough to set a V5 with some new holds. The wave had lots of newish problems on it so I didn’t touch it. Hope you’re having a good break.
Mike


On Dec 16, 2013, at 10:59 PM, David Rice <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

The corrections Dan makes should be noted. Namely, I am not suggesting we violate the relatively of simultaneity.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Daniel Reeves <[log in to unmask]>
Date: Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Updated Notes from the meeting
To: David Rice <[log in to unmask]>


Dave,

Great work with all this. The dates for the comps are confusing. I think it should be feb23 not march23 unless we are getting serious violations of the relativity of simultaneity. 

Dan

On Dec 16, 2013, at 5:39 PM, David Rice <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Folks,

Find the updated notes from the meeting below:

First, the proposed schedule for the winter (this has not changed):

0 During Winterim, pretty much anything is fair game. Just no total reset.

1 When we return from winterim, there will be a setter training during the first week. This will be run by Nietzel. Included on the agenda will be:
- How to set an effective problem
- Proper setting aesthetics
- Anything else he thinks is important?
At this time, we'll also remove every strip of tape from the wall (to encourage creation of new problems). We won't move too many holds - only those considered high priority, or maybe if one is in a really awful place.
2 All of us at the meeting committed to what was called a "1 for 1" rule. We agreed that, in the interest of creating an inclusive and sustainable climbing community at JBD, we would set one "easy" (v0-v2) problem for each "hard" (v3+) problem we set for the first week or two. Obviously this isn't a rule - I'm not going to kick anyone out for not doing this - but it was just a sign that we supported the growth of our community.
3 During the term not too much would happen out of the ordinary. Problem creation would be open to anyone. Holds won't move much during this period - only tweaks to help with the traverse, or maybe real problem spots.
4 Undergrad Comp is set for March 23rd. Setting done by grad students and community members would begin on Feb. 20th.
5 Inter-Collegiate Comp is set for March 2nd. (These are a week earlier than discussed in the meeting because it makes much more sense with the undergrad academic calendar. Grad students, please tell me if this really interferes with your academic schedules).

Second: The Graders won over the Rebels (we will grade routes, not tape them). Reasons include that it's understood they're an approximation anyways, if the grades are really off then we can just redo them, it allows for more diverse colors on the wall.

Third: To make the gym more beginner friendly, everyone agreed to set beginner problems (see above commitment) and also to put some more work into a fun traverse. Both modes of climbing can coexist in our gym.

Fourth: We agreed that it would be a good idea to have a poster to assist that always helpful concierge known as the gym monitor in his/her task of welcoming and orienting the newcomer to the gym. Is there anyone, perhaps a little more artistic than I, who wants to take this on?

Fifth: Winterimites agreed to try to get all remaining holds on the wall over winterim.

And lastly, a clarification. While there was a strong consensus around all of the points, not all were decided at the meeting. Namely, the second point was not totally settled by the group. After the meeting, I felt that (even though I was a Rebel during the meeting) grading was better for the reasons listed above. Thus, for at least winter term, we will grade routes to the best of our abilities.

Thoughts? Commentary? Contributions?

-David


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